I have 4 "Bigger" ports (can handle 30A to 200A) and 6 "Smaller" ports (can handle 1A to 30A). will get a fuse and connect it into my fuse block. Shore Power Should be Connected to a Fuse - I did not know this. Let me know if I'm missing an element here.īattery Cable - 2AWG should be safe given the length of everything? Everyone I've chatted with says that gauge should be fine for what we're doing.įusing Between Cutoff Switch and Battery - Can you elaborate on this one a bit, I should have a fuse for the battery bank into the battery cutoff switch that leads into the fuse box? My understanding (probably wrong) is that if every device had it's own fuse, that should be sufficient because those devices are what is pushing/pulling power into the battery bank With our current planned devices, the only time I'll draw more than 100Amps at a single time is if we run a hot water kettle (125A) which still should be safe since we'll be running less than 5ft of cable. Looking at the wiring charts I should be able to safely draw 100Amps about 5 feet through 4AWG wire. What is the implication of not getting the right voltage switch here? Do you have a recommendation for one to get?ĤAWG Wiring to Inverter - 4AWG wiring came with the Renogy unit so I figured that ought to be safe. PV Cutoff Switch, Rated for Panel Voltage - you are right, the switch I bought is rated for 48v, not 12v. SCC Fuse (From Charge Controller to Fuse Block) - should be 40Amps, not 30 - 30amps ought to be safe though, yeah? All in all I'll probably take your suggestion, will change this thank you! We're installing under the seat and are not planning on running very long cable (the longest cables are going to be from Solar Panels to the SCC, and DC to DC Charger into the DC Charge Controller, everything else is about 5 feet long or less (until I plug an extension cord into my inverter to power a laptop or other appliance.) Thanks for all the help and advice on this! I should have mentioned, this is for a small camper van. The Fuse Block is a Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub, and accepts a few low amp blade fuse, and it accepts a few high amp fuses. Fuse Block has everything plugged into it, both input and output, such as solar input (from a Victron MPPT controller), DC to DC charger input (also from a Victron DC Charger controller), and a few outputs including an inverter. Setup: Two 100Ah LiFeP04 batteries, short 2 AWG cables from the battery bank to the Fuse Block.
#Fuse block install
Will it work to install the smart shunt on the negative line from Battery Bank to Fuse Block? From what I can read, this will work but figured I'd ask here in case anyone has experience with this. Question: will it work to have a Fuse Block connect all the power output and input, and then have a single negative and positive connection to my battery bank? Will the fuse block be able to allow the battery to accept power input from solar as well as power output from the inverter? Or am I thinking about this the complete wrong way, and if total power draw from the inverter is greater than any power input the electrons from Solar AND Battery flow to the inverter? I feel like this is a grade school question.Īdditional Question on Battery Monitor: I want to install a Victron BMV 712. Hi all, I'm fairly certain this is a stupid question, but I can't find an answer online.
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